(This is the fourth post in the series, I am planning to build a racy looking, modern solar electric day boat for hull speed cruising in inland waterways.)
In the UK, the Boat Safety Scheme requires that all unsealed or open‐vented batteries must be stored within a ventilated space.
“Dedicated battery spaces or boxes for unsealed or open‐vented batteries must be ventilated at the top or the highest point of the sides of the space or box and any ductwork used must run horizontally or upwards.
The ventilation pathway from all battery storage locations must lead to the outside of the hull or superstructure”.
I am using a sealed battery.
Obviously you have to comply with manufacturers requirements. In addition, all UK boats have to comply with the need to secure against movement “All battery boxes, cradles, frameworks etc, must be free of signs of movement or possible movement. All batteries must be incapable of movement in excess of 10mm in any direction.
NOTE – restraint against vertical movement is generally required. However batteries may be secured by
means of a cradle or framework sufficient to ensure batteries remain secure under any condition up to 45˚ to the horizontal. Recesses, cradles or frameworks extending to half the height of the battery meet this allowance.”
I use crimped tags for connecting cables, if you haven’t used them before, youtube videos will show you how.
They come in different sizes, so get the right size for your main battery cables.Xanax Australia Buy
You will also need twin cable multi-strand 12 volt wire, a lot of smaller crimping tags ( male and female) a battery isolator (switch), insulator tape and cable supports.
When you have determined exactly where each electrical item will go, you can start cutting your 12 volt wire to length.
I do one unit at a time, make sure it works and then secure it in place.
First item to get installed was my fused switch panel. I put male connectors on the items and female connectors on the cables.
This first cable to the switch panel from the battery was just clamped to the battery terminals for testing ( – fun to see the little blue lights glowing on each of the switches ).
When I knew that worked I wrapped enough plastic insulating tape around the exposed metal of the tags to prevent contact between them.
Next I removed the cabin light and connected it in the same way. replacing it carefully using my original screw-holes.
( I had fitted it to check that it was a visually acceptable disguise for the hole in the dash, left when the steering control mount was removed).
I’ve ordered some cable clips from Joom.com who have some pretty good prices, this is my trial order to see what they are like.
I’ll carry on with the other items next and let you know how I get on, in the next post for this project.